Pioneer Cdsr100 Steering, Do-It-Yourself set

Overall Rating3.333.333.333.333.33

Do-It-Yourself set

Well, it didn’t work for me after initial setup. Honda CRV is the worst possible cars for this remote to work: the radio has some deep housing around, plus it’s on top, plus there is transmission’s column-mounted selector lever covering the radio from the left. It worked only in total darkness, 2 o’clock mounted.
Here comes the fix.
It’s infrared, so I stared looking for a LED, which is supposed to transmit the signal. Take any home TV remote and see how it works. You’ll find some clear plastic, covering a LED, or LED with no cover coming out to send a signal. Basically, it’s an invisible light, nothing more.
I was surprised and shocked to find no LED visible anywhere on Pioneer CD-SR100. Since it didn’t work for me and I’m too lazy to ship it back, I’ve decided to open the unit to see what’s inside. It wasn’t really hard, actually. You start from the bottom, where Pioneer logo is, carefully using a small flat screwdriver, and quickly have the unit in two peaces. This is when you’ll see the LEDs, two of them, hidden inside right behind that Pioneer logo. There is a tiny hole of a hair size which, according to minds of Pioneer engineers, is big enough for the signal to come out. I don’t want to use any other words here, but I totally disagree with Pioneer on their idea.
To continue, you have to remove the volume control board. It’s attached with 4 small screws. After that, I took a drill, a 1/8 drill bit and just drilled a hole near that LED, which was closest to my head unit on 2 o’clock position. That’s it. I even trimmed the volume board with scissors to open up the LED even more and pushed its head to the new hole. You can assemble the unit back after that.
And now it WORKS! It works at 2 o’clock, at 6, at 10, at darkness, at sun - it just works. Once again, don’t want to comment Pioneer’s engineers. People, finalizing the design of this unit should be fired. Actually, the soldering of the board was so-so, it’s on very cheap side, has 4-5 parts on the board, and for the money the unit is too overpriced.
You’re loosing you warranty after doing what I did, I bet, but for me the only way before was just to throw the unit away, so I don’t care.
Thanks.

Update (2/9/2012): This item is currently on sale here for the lowest price I’ve seen.

The featured review for this product, Pioneer Cdsr100 Steering Wheel Remote Control Electronics, was written by User.

The average rating for this item is 3.3 out of 5 stars, according to 3 reviews.

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Reviews (3)

User

January 21st, 2010 at 4:07 pm    


Overall Rating22222

Do-It-Yourself set
Rated 2 stars.


A. Chopra

February 6th, 2010 at 12:23 am    


Overall Rating33333

You get what you pay for!
Pioneer Cdsr100 is a steering remote control unit being sold by Pioneer for more than 9 years now. Yes, because it works well with all units, so there was no need to replace it. I am using it with DEH P-80MP (or P-1Y in Asia) for two years and my experience so far with it is just ok. I like the ease to operate, and its excellent design, but hates when it stops working when your car is parked in sun, or when it is too cold. Still, it is value for money product from Pioneer.


Blake Carpenter

February 11th, 2010 at 3:28 pm    


Overall Rating55555

Mod that makes it 5 stars CDSR100
Found intermittent operation when out of the box. Found the review on Amazon recommending a drilled hole, snipped board, and bent LED. This makes it a 5 out of 5. Works like a champ. Remove the battery. Separate top from bottom (did it with my fingernails). Stock uses two LED’s to bounce light off your face through black plastic - while this makes for clean packaging - it doesn’t pass light well (invisible or not). CAREFULLY bend one of the LED’s to point toward your deck instead of your face. Drill a 1/8″ hole (found drilling from the inside out easier) pointed toward your deck. Remove the 4 screws on the audio volume board and snip the corner off with a pair of scissors or cutters - right along the closest wire solder pad (not an absolutely necessary mod if you are crunched for time or fear). Position the LED to point toward the hole. Reassemble. 1/2 hour tops - mostly to round up tools. Make it work EVERY time. Positioned mine in an Altima @ 3 o’clock. 1 foot from the deck face. Really makes the system come alive (PIONEER DEH-9800BT with XM). Awsome combo.


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